How Do I Read A Battery Hydrometer Floating Colored Balls

THE Basics ON BATTERIES
*Of import Items Highlighted/ Colored

Commencement things first. A 12-volt bombardment is not a 12-volt bombardment. Twelve volts is merely a nominal, convenient term used to distinguish i battery from some other. A fully-charged 12-volt battery, allowed to "rest" for a few hours (or days) with no load existence drawn from it (or charge going to it), will residual out its charge and measure nearly 12.6 volts betwixt terminals.

When a battery reads only 12 volts under the in a higher place atmospheric condition, it's nearly fully depleted. Actually, if a battery's resting voltage is only 12.0 to 12.1 it means simply xx to 25% of its useful energy remains. Information technology's either a goner or it has been deep cycled, and a battery can but be deep-cycled a limited number of times before information technology is indeed dead.

12-volt batteries supply useful energy but through a limited range — from over 14 volts (when fully charged and unrested) downward to ten.5 volts in use/under load (when lights dim, pumps groan and TV pictures go small). No 12-volt battery will remain at over 14 volts for more seconds unless it'south being charged. The everyman limit is 10.five volts (used in testing) and manifestly unsatisfactory in practical use. Experienced RVers endeavor to utilise no more than twenty% to 50% of the energy available in a bombardment before recharging. That ways they never permit resting voltage get below 12.5. They never use more than than fifty% earlier recharging (resting volts of 12.3) except in an emergency. They know that, if resting voltage always reaches 12.i, they take deep-discharged one cycle and that a battery is good for just so many cycles (from as low as 20 in an automotive battery to 180 in a golf cart battery, with the typical RV/marine bombardment expert for no more than 30).

Watts = Volts x Amps instance: 60W = 12V ten A and 60 ÷ 12 = v amps

BATTERY CHARGING VOLTAGE
Charging voltage is different. Some more than nuts: If yous read articles on how electricity flows, you lot see comparisons equally to how water flows. This is okay up to a point, but water as well flows by gravity. Electricity doesn't, information technology has to exist "pushed" (only as water has to sometimes be pumped).

You have to have more than "juice" at one end of a wire than you lot need at the output or electricity won't menstruum. The wire you pump electricity through and the connections in the lines resist the flow. You have to overpower it. Similarly, batteries take an inherent resistance to accept a charge considering of their chemical makeup. You have to force more than electricity into a battery than it would like to take or it won't be fully charged. To charge a standard 12-volt battery, you have to bring it upward to higher up fourteen volts (amount varies with the type of bombardment).

When checking the batteries, (at rest) use these "Voltage Landmarks".

12.6 volts = 100%
12.5 volts = 70%
12.3 volts = 50%
11.iv volts = twenty%

The typical wet-cell bombardment (pb plates in a mixture of sulfuric acid and h2o) needs to be charged up to about 14.+ volts in social club to adequately distribute those funny fiddling things called electrons through the plates. In one case that's done, the bombardment tin can residuum. As information technology does, the electrons distribute themselves and eventually residual out at 12.6 volts (more than or less, depending on the type battery and its condition). This is your starting bespeak.

MORE AMPS AND VOLTS
As mentioned earlier, yous should only draw a bombardment down to nigh 12.3 volts before recharging . Apparently, there'due south more than to it than that. Amperes are the measure of actual power available. They're commonly converted to amp(ere) hours (AH). Retrieve of it every bit the amount of (nominal) 12-volt power you can draw out of a battery for a certain amount of time. It'southward not just iii-tenths of a volt. It's 12 (nominal) volts for a certain amount of time. The three-tenths stuff is nothing more than a difference in measurement — like the difference between three-fourths of a tank of gas and a half tank.

Look at voltage as ii things: Kickoff, a force that pushes electrons — Second, as a handy measurement.

Await at amperes as two things: First, a quantity of free energy (like you would a gallon of gas) — Second, every bit a handy measurement. From a (nominal again, don't forget) 12-volt tub of free energy, y'all can extract just then many amperes of power.

Keep in mind that the laws of physics prevent you from getting more out of something than you put into it! Keep in mind that waste material (those wires, battery contents and such) prevents y'all from taking out every bit much equally you put in. Keep in mind that yous're going to have to put in almost x% more than electrical power than you apply (high school physics). A bombardment depository financial institution is like a "money" banking concern or checking business relationship — if you repeatedly accept more out than you lot put in, you'll eventually exist in trouble.

More than ON Battery CHARGING
Not all batteries are the same. Standard wet-cell batteries can exist charged to 14.+ volts (unremarkably 14.iii but depends on the manufacturer). Gel-cell batteries and other sealed batteries should never be charged to more than than near 14.one volts (again, may vary depending on manufacturer). And these figures only pertain when the charger will exist disconnected as those levels are reached (as with a generator, solar system, portable charger, or engine alternator). As the volts drop (usually down to almost 12.6 to 13.3), charging begins once again, either manually or through an automatic regulator. Note also: The maximum charging voltage quoted for gels past the manufacturer is every bit a sustained voltage, not an intermittent one. That means brief over-voltages before a regulator shuts off are OK.

Sustained charging, where the batteries are "floated" at a abiding charge (every bit in the RV converter or with an automatic portable charger) should not exist done at more than 13.viii volts (and xiii.65 makes batteries last longer). It'south supposed to keep the batteries "upwardly" to a reasonable level without undercharging or overcharging them (the supposition being you lot'll "height them off" past driving). Unfortunately, many cheap chargers and RV converters don't regulate very well. Overcharging destroys batteries quickly. Undercharging destroys batteries too, but more subtly as the battery stratifies and will no longer maintain a charge. In effect, the 100 amp/hour RV battery becomes a x amp/hour bombardment after consistent undercharge. It will read total voltage, but as soon every bit a small load is placed on it, information technology drops to nada. RVers who remain plugged into commercial power for long periods often never know this has happened until they unplug, because the converter's transformer besides supplies power directly to the RV circuits while it'due south charging the battery — or trying to.

BATTERY EQUALIZING
Sometimes an equalizing charge can correct the above situation. BUT, don't always attempt to equalize a really sealed moisture battery or gel-celled or AGM battery! You've got to be really careful when doing this! The battery is going to "gas" (bubbles in the cells, hydrogen gas escaping). It shouldn't be vehement, spewing acid an over the place, merely gentle to rapid bubbles but information technology requires caution. It'due south usually done by hooking up a manual charger, and then bringing the voltage up to 14.1 or 14.3 and, instead of stopping as usual, keeping it there, at about a 5-amp charge, for iii to six hours (until voltage reaches fourteen.5 to 15). Practice this with the caps off of a standard battery and then you can see what's going on. About 3 hours is usually normal for one of these equalizing charges.

Follow safety precautions, use safety goggles, plenty of ventilation, etc.

Some bombardment people recommend equalizing in this manner every three months (or afterwards 5 deep cycles). I retrieve the wear and tear on a 12V bombardment from equalizing this often does more damage than it's worth.

Batteries held at 13.8 or so for long periods go lazy and like it in that location. They need some "equalizing" too. Not equally drastic as above, fortunately. If you drive occasionally, your engine alternator should do it (bold the regulator is set properly). So will a solar electric system or a skilful, well-regulated independent battery charger. If zippo else, use the manual charger one time in a while when parked and plugged in, merely simply bring volts up to 14.+ (whatever's appropriate) and end in that location.

Golf Cart Battery
Half-dozen volt heavy-duty batteries (similar golf carts, etc.) differ. Their heavy plates and other construction features allow periodic equalizing. I recommend the same 5 amp accuse rate, for three to 6 hours (until voltage reaches a maximum of xvi.5) every vi months or so. Information technology varies, with some people doing it monthly (which might mean another problem).

BATTERY CHARGE/DISCHARGE RATE
You'll see references in battery books to the proper charge rate. C/x, C/20, etc. Sometimes it can be disruptive. What y'all need to know is that it means the "time" information technology takes to fully charge a "dead" battery at a certain amp rate. For case: A 105AH battery will fully recharge (from expressionless) in about ten hours at about 10 amps of charge (C/10) or about 20 hours at v amps of accuse (C/20). Faster charge rates, similar C/5 or C/8 shouldn't exist used with about batteries because the high amperage required for such a fast charge amercement the battery. C/5 on a expressionless 105 AH battery requires pounding in over 20 amps. (This is sufficient reason to stay abroad from fast-chargers in service stations where a gigantic amount of amps are pummeling your battery when they "accuse" (destroy) it in 20 minutes. And when you buy a battery off the shelf, don't let the guy "put information technology on a charger for only a few minutes" or it volition be damaged before you lot ever use it.

Bombardment TROUBLESHOOTING AND Battery TESTING
Don't just replace batteries and keep on trucking! Find out what went wrong first. Is the converter working? Voltage also high? Besides depression? Is information technology connected to the battery? Fuse diddled? Wire broken? Contacts cruddy? Kill switch on motor domicile on or off (whichever is appropriate — and the wrong position a common fault among motor homers)? How many times have you lot deep-cycled? Curt in the organisation? Been hooked upwardly a long time? Automotive regulator/alternator OK? (More later.)

Measuring, metering, testing and troubleshooting require only a few tools and basic cognition. Much of it is common sense, requiring no tools. Do non always depend on the ruby-red/yellow/dark-green idiot meter installed in most RV's. Get a digital meter. Yous need a digital meter to accurately read battery voltage to tenths of a volt. You should have an Analog (needle face) meter besides. You can't tell the deviation between bombardment voltages with an analog with great accuracy, but they are better in some ways (considering information technology's easier to see rapid changes) than digital meters for reading fluctuations. (Much more afterward.)

Get a 12-volt troubleshooting lite/test lamp from any auto store inexpensive or brand your ain. (Meters will indicate voltage even if at that place'due south only one strand left in a wire. Test lamps won't light if there'south not enough wire to behave the load.)

Get a decent hydrometer if you accept moisture-cell batteries and can remove the caps. Don't get a cheapie with colored, floating assurance. Learn how to read a hydrometer.

Battery Testing
Can be done in more than ane way: The nigh accurate method of measurement is using a hydrometer to measure specific gravity and using a D.C. voltmeter to become the battery voltage.
A quality load tester may be a expert purchase if you need to examination sealed12 volt batteries.
For any of these methods, you must offset fully charge the bombardment and and so remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I adopt at least 12 hours) yous may brainstorm testing. To remove surface charge the bombardment must exist discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will practise the trick. Subsequently turning off the light you are prepare to test the bombardment.

State of Accuse	Specific Gravity	Voltage
		12V	6V
100%	1.265	12.vii	6.3
75%	1.225	12.4	half-dozen.2
50%	1.190	12.2	vi.one
25%	1.155	12.0	6.0
Discharged	1.120	11.nine	6.0

Specific Gravity: Full charge SG will run from nearly 1.260 in an auto battery to nearly 1.275 in a golf game cart. High SG (more than acid) allows more juice (current) to be drawn–but just up to a point; then the battery deteriorates–fast. Golf cart plates are made to handle this, RV/Marine somewhat, automotive not at all. Don't endeavour to get more than AH by adding acid (or vinegar instead of distilled water), the bombardment will just die sooner.

More than ON SPECIFIC GRAVITY–and checking resting voltage
If you have standard batteries, get a good hydrometer (not one with colored floating balls in it). It must take a tube inside with SG increments conspicuously marked and a built in thermometer with a temperature correction chart. It's unlikely that a new battery, even freshly charged, will give more 80% of its rated output. You'll get more than subsequently it'due south been used and recharged a few times–unless it's faulty. Check SG anyway to establish a "baseline" reading.

Look peculiarly for differences between cells. A variation of .050 between whatsoever means a possible problem. This is afterwards information technology's charged and bubbled a bit to mix chemicals thoroughly. If information technology's a new bombardment and this happens, accept it back. If erstwhile, plan on replacing it soon. It probably has a stratified/shorted prison cell. Initially, at that place'due south no demand in checking SG until a battery reaches about 70% of total charge and is bubbling/gassing slightly (non humid like a java pot). Then, take readings in one case each hour and write them down. When 3 successive readings are alike, the bombardment is equally charged equally it will get. Record readings for each prison cell and bombardment. Disconnect bombardment from any accuse or load and leave it overnight (24 hours is ameliorate). Check SG again. Readings may be a bit lower, but should be consistent. Record these as your new baseline: your normal, total accuse, resting values.

Exercise this again subsequently two weeks or a month of utilise. Readings may be slightly college, but once again, should be consistent. If the batteries have been constantly overcharged or undercharged, it volition bear witness upwards hither. You should have checked that your battery charger was set properly before starting all this, only if you get aberrant readings check that your charger is regulating properly (run into later). If you have to add water this before long, yous are near definitely overcharging. Once you've done the above tests, you shouldn't have to practise it more than than twice a year unless you notice a problem. Y'all should check water level about one time a calendar month. Ideally, you shouldn't have to add water more than than 2 to four times a year. More than that probably indicates overcharging.

Using a Hydrometer Without Making a Mess

Stick it in a cell until it just rests on top of the plates. Squirt in and out a few times–gently, don't splatter. Then make full until the inner tube floats. Also piffling and information technology will rest on bottom of hydrometer. Besides much and it will hit the meridian. In either case, you'll get faux readings. Don't remove the matter from the prison cell to read it, you'll just drip acid all over. Take your reading and write it down. Read at the fluid level, non at the slight curvature where the fluid touches the inner tube. (Earlier moving to the next jail cell, don't forget to squirt the acid back in.) Note temperature on thermometer and correct reading every bit indicated. Note, again, that all readings for a battery should be within .050 of each other. Keep in mind you might have a cheap or faulty hydrometer. El cheapos have a newspaper SG scale in the tube that slips upwardly and down.

Load testing is yet another way of testing a bombardment. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can exist purchased at most automobile parts stores. Some battery companies characterization their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually ane/two of the CCA rating. For example, a 500CCA bombardment would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test tin simply be performed if the bombardment is almost or at full charge.

Hydrometer readings should non vary more than .05 differences betwixt cells.

Digital Voltmeters should read equally the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell bombardment voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you accept voltage readings in the 10.v volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted jail cell.

If y'all take a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the status of 1 cell of 6. You may get a proficient reading from ane cell simply take a trouble with other cells in the battery.

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance is all-important. Crud on top of a battery provides a path between poles. It's a "short." One most people never discover, just information technology uses energy constantly.Y'all don't need to slop baking soda all over. Often just a spray 'n wipe with household cleaner is all that's needed.

Corrosion will build up. Some-times yous can't fifty-fifty see information technology. Have contacts apart and make clean them. (Now is when you lot might utilize baking soda, but don't let it arrive the cells.) Washed once or twice a year, it'southward fast and easy.
Before putting things back together, coat all surfaces (thinly) with silicone dielectric grease. That'south earlier, non later on. You won't achieve a thing by smearing grease on top of corrosion.
Never use red battery spray. Information technology just makes things worse. The crimson/green felt, noncorrosive washers are okay.
Label or color-code cable and wire ends. Make a diagram. If you don't, yous'll just hook things upwardly wrong.

MORE DETAILS ON BATTERIES (MOSTLY GEL CELLS and AGM)
Much of the same material applies: All batteries demand to be maintained. All batteries demand to be kept charged — but not overcharged or undercharged. All need clean connections and good, stout cablevision and wire of the proper size. No battery should exist routinely deep-cycled. Of most importance, charging needs to be well regulated.

And here's where the difference between gels, AGMs and regular, moisture-jail cell batteries starts to show up seriously.

Wet prison cell (flooded) batteries: Suspended plates, usually with some form of separators (so plates don't touch each other) are immersed in liquid electrolyte. These may be charged, just as a starter bombardment, which makes things a lot simpler.
Gel batteries: Plates are suspended in a thick gelled electrolyte that insures stability and eliminates voids or "air pockets" at the plates. The all-time gels are those past "East Penn Mfg." (under "SeaGel," Prevailer" and other labels — merely the East Penn name will announced somewhere). Competitors are lite weights. Gels are seldom charged to more than than 14.one volts initial (majority) charge and 13.eight (13.65 is better) every bit a "float" accuse (come across after).
AGM (Captivated Glass Mat) batteries: A dumbo fiber matting between the plates and a liquid electrolyte provide
similar features to gel batteries but are much more than rugged since they were designed for utilise in shipping and rough terrain vehicles. The best AGMs are those made by "Concorde" (normally nether the "Lifeline" label merely Concorde will appear somewhere). AGMs (similar gels) are very sensitive to overcharge. fourteen.38 volts is recommended for the initial (bulk) charge and xiii.38 as a "float" charge.

Pros and Cons:

Standard, old-timey flooded batteries are cheap (initially). They'll do the job (golf game carts or similar amend than RV/Marine stuff). See remarks elsewhere. They volition vent gas and fluid, but it tin be replenished with distilled water. They require a lot of care.

Gells and AGMs can exercise a better job and final longer, But likewise require special intendance. They're rather expensive initially (but my half-dozen gels are in their 10th year, equally practiced as new, and the toll nets out to less than standard batteries). Withal, they are very carefully charged and that requires an expensive charger/regulator. Gels and AGMs don't demand a lot of maintenance and cleaning (other than a quick spray and wipe from a household cleaner) UNLESS you do something stupid and overcharge them. They won't spill acrid, are very stupor resistant, don't pass gas (pun intended) unless seriously overcharged, take a VERY depression self-discharge charge per unit (squeamish when the RV is in storage) and accept a very long bicycle life.

I've used golf game cart batteries, regular batteries and gels. As I'll repeat with more item elsewhere, golf carts and like batteries are, all things considered, the best solution. Were I to have to replace my batteries today (they're in the living compartment in a small RV), I'd go with AGM. In a bigger RV, I'd go with golf game cart or fork elevator batteries.

You should never charge a gel battery to more than 14.one volts (or to more than than the voltage specified by the manufacturer) before the regulator shuts off the charger except for very brief periods. And so, every bit a battery is "floated" (kept on the charger with a charge applied to keep information technology upwards to a reasonable level), it should never exceed 13.8 volts (amend, for long life is a maximum of 13.65 volts). Again, though, you don't float the battery permanently. You lot occasionally bring it up to 14.+ (this is EZ with a solar regulator or better quality battery charger that will perform regulating tasks oft and automatically. (more later.)AGMs are charged similarly, just with different voltages.

Really, y'all'd be foolish to continue (float) any battery at a sustained charge of over fourteen volts. You'd merely wear it out prematurely and it would exist spewing acid all the time, making a mess. But with a regular, wet-prison cell battery with removable caps, y'all can add water and make clean up the corrosion. With a gel, or any other (really) sealed battery, you tin can't add h2o. All you can do is lookout the battery deteriorate.

Gel batteries and AGMs do take caps, simply don't ever endeavor to remove them. First, you'll violate the warranty. Second, you'll contaminate the inside. When it dies early, the dealer/manufactory will know you did this and will void the warranty. Likewise, if y'all overcharge a gel or AGM battery, the manufacturing plant can find that, too. Again, no more warranty.

TEMPERATURE
Temperature is important when charging any kind of batteries. A really hot battery (EZ to attain if they're sitting out in a cheap, plastic box) will overcharge well before the voltages listed earlier. Keeping batteries "indoors" helps go along them at about an ideal temperature (of near 68 to 77ºF). Really, high temperature only becomes a real problem when the bombardment is existence "floated." A 13.viii volt float can easily become a 14+ a-whole-bunch float at 90º. Temp tin can too be a winter trouble as batteries attempt to freeze and their amp hour capacity is reduced by over 30%.

More than ON REGULATING Accuse
In that location are only a few RV converter/combination battery chargers that are worth having. Most practise an absolutely lousy job and you haven't the faintest thought what wild voltage (or lack of) is going to your batteries. Some converter/chargers do work. Check yours no matter what kind of bombardment yous use. With the thing operating, and the battery reasonably-well charged, and non much more load on the bombardment than the Television receiver antenna amplifier and reefer brain (RV reefers with a circuit board use 12 volts all the time, only to operate the board), put a digital volt meter across the "business firm" battery terminals. Leave information technology there awhile and see if it's property the batteries to around xiii.viii volts. (Or is it charging them upwardly to something ridiculous?) (Or is it charging at all?) Some, even fewer, RVs use a separate bombardment charger (not equally office of a converter). By and large, these are pretty adept (and expensive). Just check them the aforementioned way. It's not at all uncommon to detect stock RV battery chargers floating batteries at 14.3 volts or higher. The best chargers regulate in two, three or four stages. Outset, anytime in that location'due south sufficient demand, they full charge to 14.+ volts (adjustable by you). Second, they revert to a "float" charge of about thirteen.8 (which in good chargers is adjustable once more). Some have a tertiary, "equalizing" stage, automatic or transmission, that should also be adjustable. (At that place are some iv-stage chargers also.)

If yous want to use gel or AGM batteries, yous must take a skilful, reliable, user-adjustable regulator and charger. The best way to accuse batteries is with a solar electric system. (Again, check beginning and final with "RV Solar Electric" above.) A solar system (if it has a user-adaptable regulator) volition let y'all set the charge cut-off at desired volts. Usually, anytime the solar organisation achieves that, it will cut off and drop to near 13.1 volts before resuming (some solar regs will back off to a bladder voltage). This gives the batteries a "remainder" and keeps them from overcharging. (And, of course, at night, solar systems don't practice annihilation, so there'south a good rest, too.) For a backup, you tin utilize a generator or commercial ability. Make sure your generator (if it has a direct DC 12 volt charging outlet) is prepare to regulate at proper volts! If information technology simply charges through your converter, yous'll accept checked that higher up, but recheck it with the generator running. Do the same with an independent charger. Many others are bachelor.

Deep Cycling
Let'south consider something hither: One does non deep cycle a battery daily equally a thing of grade. If one did, so the maximum life of whatsoever battery would equal the available number of cycles and no bombardment would last more than 6 to 9 months. Ideally, what you need is a bombardment (batteries) that will provide the ability yous require without being cycled (depleted from resting full charge) by more than than 20 to 50% before being recharged. (If yous accept a 100AH battery and take no more than 20AH from information technology before recharging, it might concluding longer than yous will.) Unfortunately, this isn't realistic, but you lot can accept up to 50% from a battery before recharging and nonetheless go long life. Simple arithmetic–how many AH used versus how many AH available will tell y'all how many batteries are needed. Go on in heed that you shouldn't wait only 80% of the manufacturer'due south rating. And then a 105AH battery is really about 84AH. MAX! No battery volition give y'all its rated output in real life! They're rated down to an end point of x.five volts. Past then, lights become dim and Television film small. A Specific Gravity of about 1.200 or a voltage of 12.25 to 12.3 means the battery is almost 50% discharged. By the time it's down to 11.8 or 12 volts, information technology'due south almost dead.

AMP Hours and Battery Chapters
What are "Amp Hours"? Amp hours is the amount of current in "Amps" times the number of hours information technology tin can evangelize that electric current.
Case: A 100 amp-hour battery can deliver 10 amps for 10 hours or 20 amps for 5 hours.
One amp for 100 hours, or whatsoever combination, should let you to rate batteries, but it doesn't work like that. (It's a logarithmic, not a linear, progression.) Farther, chapters, in AH, depends on several things: size, corporeality/type electrolyte, plate thickness, etc. You lot don't want to investigate all that crap. Of key interest to the states are:

Rate of Discharge: Mostly 20 hours for automotive, 6 for golf cart and viii for RV/Marine. A 180AH golf cart will, technically, give you 30 amps for its rated 6 hours, only information technology will not requite 60 amps for 3 hours. (Has to practice with things like heat at this higher rate due to extreme chemic action demanded–stuff you don't want to fool with.) It will requite i amp for about 105 hours, though, which is nice to know. Don't simply read AH. Read the charts when comparison batteries.

Specific Gravity: Full charge SG will run from virtually 1.260 in an motorcar battery to about one.275 in a golf cart. High SG (more acid) allows more than juice (current) to be drawn–only only up to a indicate; then the battery deteriorates–fast. Golf cart plates are made to handle this, RV/Marine somewhat, automotive non at all. Don't try to get more AH by adding acid (or vinegar instead of distilled water), the battery will just die sooner.

Temperature: Batteries are made to perform best at 77°F. At higher temps, they put out more, but die sooner. At lower temps, they put out less, but concluding longer (unless yous let them freeze).

CABLES AND CONNECTIONS

Tying the organisation together is important. No indicate spending a lot of money on batteries and chargers and wiring it up with skimpy junk. Large bombardment cables can exist purchased from San Diego Battery Wholesale. Custom-fabricated cable to your lengths with terminals that match your vehicle is besides available.

METERING BATTERIES
If you lot have maintenance free (maintenance prohibitive) batteries, you lot tin can't have fun with a hydrometer. Even if y'all can employ a hydrometer, y'all don't demand to (or want to) exercise it more than a couple of times a year. Use the chart (see subsequently) to go on an accurate check on land of accuse. When taking SG readings, measure voltage at the same time. Keep in mind that if a battery is charging, voltage will read about ½ to 1 volt college than bodily. Annotation that chart voltages (after) are as little equally .05 apart. You can't read that accurately on an analog (punch/needle-faced) meter. You need a digital meter. You don't need to spend over $200 for a professional model. Encounter ads in electronics magazines for reasonably priced meters. You demand a 3½ digit" meter (reads to 2 decimal places) and become one with at to the lowest degree a x amp current mensurate (20 is better). At present, the all-time bargain is a Metex brand #M3800 3½ digit at twenty amp capacity for $forty from: JAMECO. (Run into Sources.) All RVers need one of these anyway.

When checking the batteries, (at rest) use these "Voltage Landmarks".

12.6 volts = 100%
12.five volts = lxx%
12.iii volts = 50%
eleven.4 volts = xx%

MORE ON UNDERCHARGE AND OVERCHARGE
"Under" results in stratification. "Over" simply eats the plates. Use a regulator to prevent overcharge. When you lot think a battery is charged, too loftier a SG means over. As well low ways under. Compare with an accurate voltage check. You should only need to add h2o a few times a year. More ways bombardment'south gassing too much. You lot tin't tell by feeling the heat of the battery case any more (better plastics). You must put about 10% more energy into a battery than you take out (more loftier school physics–someday free energy is transformed, there must be some loss). An "old" battery can require more than. Compare how much you're putting in versus what y'all take out and size your system accordingly.

CONNECTING BATTERIES IN PARALLEL, Serial and SERIES-PARALLEL

This is really simple, but information technology'south astonishing how many RVers screw it all upward!

In series, volts increase; amps remain the same.
In parallel, amps increment; volts remain the same.

In Parallel: you connect the (+) of one 12vbat to the (+) of the other. Connect (-) of 1 to the (-) of the other. You volition then have nevertheless have a 12volt bat, simply with greater amp hr capacity. This is now an ordinary 12V bat, except that instead of being in one "box," it is in 2 boxes.

In Series: If yous were to hook two 12 volt batteries in serial, yous'd take 24 volts. Clearly non the affair to practise unless you have a bus conversion or custom rig that uses 24Volts. However, many RVers apply 6 volt (usually golf cart) batteries. E.Thousand., 2 105AH 6v in serial would still = about 105AH but @ a nominal 12V.

Wiring in Series:
To visualize it easier. First with a elementary cake diagram. Two 6V batteries.
On left bat, place (-) at left end, identify (+) on right stop.
On correct bat, place (-) on left end, identify (+) on right stop.
Draw a line from (+) on left bat to adjacent (-) on correct bat.

This is now an ordinary 12V bat, except that instead of being in i "box" with cells all connected in series on the interior, it is in two boxes joined with a cable. It'south however a unmarried 12 volt bat, electrically, then START THINKING OF IT THIS Manner and don't confuse yourself by thinking of it as bat 1 and bat 2.

At this point, you've got ii unused bat posts — just similar an ordinary 12 volt bat; one neg that goes to chassis ground and i pos that goes to normal 12V isolator/supply/etc.

Series/Parallel:
Only repeat the series step higher up with 2 more than vi volt bats and you end upward with two 12V bats. Remember of it this style instead of as four 6V bats! You now have ii (-) unused posts. Connect them together (but as y'all would when connecting two ordinary 12V bats in parallel). Echo for the two unused (+) posts.

Information technology's actually quite uncomplicated. The problem many people accept is in thinking that this is very complicated. It's not.

The just time yous think of the bats equally four 6V bats is when you disconnect them for maintenance and cleaning. And then, only to brand absolutely certain that you don't spiral up when putting them back together.
Toward this end, information technology's essential that you clearly label posts and cablevision ends!

% Of Accuse	Standard Bombardment Typical Specific Gravity (After Temperature Correction)	Standard Bombardment Equivalent Resting Volts	Gel-Jail cell Battery Equivalent Resting Volts
100%	1.260 (auto) to ane.280 (industrial)	12.threescore-12.75	12.90-13.00
95%	1.255	12.60-12.70	12.fourscore
xc%	1.250 (Resting S.G. for standard RV battery.)	12.60-12.65	12.70
85%	1.245 (Same as to a higher place. No betoken being too picky.)	12.lx
fourscore%	1.235-one.240 (We endeavor not to belch below this bespeak.)	12.l-12.55	12.sixty
75%	1.225-1.230 (1.230=minimum SG for a charged bombardment.)	12.50
seventy%	1.220 (Anything below 1.220 is "poorly" charged.)	12.45	12.50
65%	one.215	12.xl
60%	1.205	12.35	12.forty
55%	1.200	12.30
50%	1.190-1.195 (Try to never discharge below this point.)	12.25	12.35
45%	1.185	12.20
40%	one.180	12.xv-12.xx	12.25
25%	1.160-1.170 (Dangerously low; bombardment being damaged.)	12.10-12.xv
xx%	1.150 (Cells dice soon at this bespeak. Cheerio-bye bombardment.)	11.80-12.00	12.xv

TROUBLESHOOTING

House Battery: The intent hither is to make up one's mind if the battery itself is good, and, in its role equally a "firm" battery, how yous can examination it, the house wiring and charging circuit.

Situation: You're charging the battery from any one of several sources. Everything has been working fine; but for no apparent reason and all of a sudden, there'southward no electricity. Don't just first taking everything apart! Look around for the obvious. Is the battery all the same there? Is everything in one piece? (A nearby lightning strike tin can blow the superlative off.) Are the cables connected? I once spent an hour roaming around with a volt meter only to find I'd simply left the negative cable off.

Steps:
Connect a volt meter across the bombardment. Information technology should read some, reasonable voltage even if well discharged (unless it's dead). If voltage is adequate, and assuming things are normal, try moving/twisting the main cable clamps at the bombardment. Often, even on a clean-actualization battery, a thin moving-picture show of corrosion builds up betwixt postal service and connector (that you lot can't see). While the corrosion builds up very gradually, its consequence can happen all of a sudden.

Next, especially if the connections are cruddy, place the tip of an upright, apartment-bladed screwdriver on top at the circular junction of mail service and clamp and give information technology a good sock with your fist (not a hammer).
Do the same with the other post. If bad connections are the problem, the above should allow at least some electricity to flow–enough to indicate the trouble. If the above helps at all, take things apart and make clean them.
If the above doesn't assist, kickoff disconnect the charging source then disconnect the bombardment (you lot might as well become ahead and remove it). Before you start phiddling with the bombardment, attach a pair of jumper cables from a known, expert battery to the RV cables.
Attach the (+) cable start. If you don't let the loose end touch something, there should be no sparks because in that location'due south no place for electricity to go (all the same).
Then attach the (-) cable to the "good" battery. (Once more, at that place should be no sparks if you don't screw up.)
Finally, attach the terminal (-) end to the RV cablevision (If the bad battery was removed, sparks at this terminal connection shouldn't injure anything. This seems like a roundabout way to practise all this but there's a reason for it.
If there'due south now electricity in your business firm, you know you had a discharged battery. Perhaps a bad battery, but not necessarily. Again, before you offset phiddling with the "bad" battery, you need to bank check the charging organization. The idea here is find out why the battery discharged.
Run a load (lamp or whatever) to remove the surface charge from your "good" temporary battery. Depending on what kind of battery charger you have, yous may need to run the battery downward to about 13V or less to get the regulator to let charging to resume. Keep measuring voltage. When charging resumes, information technology will increment.
If the voltage doesn't increase, information technology'southward possible that your charging source (converter, generator, solar system) isn't working or the flow is interrupted.

Make the impaired checks first:

Is the converter working? Is the "kill" switch on or off on some motor homes? It'southward unlikely, because then you lot should have had a gradual loss, non a sudden one. Information technology is possible though.
And it's possible you have a bad bombardment AND a bad charging system. RV converters with built-in battery chargers can really confuse you lot. There are two outputs to these things: One furnishes 12V direct from the transformer to near house circuits. The other goes from battery charger portion to battery. If you've been plugged into commercial power, the main transformer may have been running everything while the bombardment charger was not working. Also, the "impale" switch may accept been off or fuse from charger blown. (Cheque the dumb things first.)
Put a volt meter at the bombardment end while yous're doing it. Quite often, a little manipulating volition articulate things right upwardly. If non, go dorsum to the source of the charging organization with your volt meter. Is there power at the charger output? At the output to battery terminal at solar panels or solar regulator?
Again, bank check fuses carefully. You can't tell if a fuse is bad by looking at it, you demand to mensurate it with a test lamp. Retrieve that a meter tin point "good" if at that place's merely a slight contact but a test lamp won't work if there's not plenty to carry the load.
If this also fails, you lot may have to cheque at the charging source with no battery attached. It's easy with an RV converter, simply if you employ a solar organization or current of air generator yous may not exist able to (some tin be severely damaged if run without a load). RTFM (Read The F****** Transmission)! Our purpose in checking at the source (with or without battery connected) is to see if there'south anything at that place.

If at that place's withal no voltage, at present starts the onerous process of checking the whole organization.

Do it logically. Get all the mode to the source first. Disconnect generator, solar panels, whatever, from the system. Yous can now measure them in functioning without damaging anything (except some current of air chargers). If the charger works, you know that y'all accept two long pieces of wire (+) and (-) with a problem somewhere. Don't ignore the (-) wire. Information technology is every bit as necessary equally the (+). Reconnect charger and battery if necessary.
Become to some logical halfway signal with your volt meter. One manner or the other, you'll get voltage (unless you missed something at the source). Go on in this manner, roughly going halfway (each time on the dead side). Unless you screw upward, you'll soon isolate the problem to just a few feet of wire. If something hasn't been left unconnected or the wire been cutting, you'll usually isolate the problem to a connectedness or fuse.
Look at things, pull on wires to make certain they're really attached. This is where bad crimped connections bear witness up. (I spent an hour helping someone rail downward a solar system this style. Every crimped concluding fell apart in my hands. He'd crimped them with normal pliers.) Look for corrosion at terminals, just as at battery cables. Remember that only because a converter is buzzing, information technology doesn't mean the battery charger is working. If working with a solar arrangement, never try to put a jumper beyond the solar (+) and battery (+) to featherbed the regulator–you'll fry it. Even so, if yous disconnect those wires from the regulator, then you can put them together.

All the above can exist done with a volt meter or exam lamp. In fact, a test lamp works meliorate at continuity checks, because a volt meter might signal ability if but 1 strand of wire is still connected while a test lamp won't light if it doesn't have a excursion heavy enough for the load.

TO CHECK THE BATTERY ITSELF–MORE ON RESTING VOLTAGE

It tin be checked with a hydrometer, simply a battery can read OK and even so be faulty. Here's a good way to check a battery. Information technology takes time, but information technology'due south worth it:

Accuse information technology fully, preferably with a skilful battery charger or an contained, manual, automotive charger (you need one anyway for emergencies). This tin take awhile if information technology'due south been deep discharged (expressionless).
Measure voltage. It should be quite high–over 13 volts and 14.+ is better. Disconnect the charger. Leave the battery (with nothing connected to information technology) at least half-dozen hours. Overnight or 24 hours is amend.
Measure voltage over again. It should exist 12.6 volts. If not, fifty-fifty if information technology'southward 12.5, information technology's a goner or it's going. If information technology reads 12.half dozen, it nevertheless might exist bad.
A commercial bombardment store can cheque this with a variable load tester. So tin can you. If the battery is at least a so-called l00AH RV/Marine type, it should commencement near engines in decent atmospheric condition. Connect a volt meter across it. If it doesn't showtime, leap starting time information technology. Run the engine at a nice, fast idle (ane,500 to 2,000 rpm).
If the voltage rises to over 14 volts in only 4 or 5 minutes, y'all have a bad bombardment. Due to things we won't dwell on here, the AH capacity has been severely reduced (stratification, deep discharges, etc.). What you have is a bombardment that has about a l0AH capacity instead of l00AH. It tests OK because it has some chapters (might run a lamp a few hours), just not plenty. This mutual problem often drives people nuts. It tests OK, it just won't last long.
The same test works on motorcar batteries. They exam OK but won't start an engine.

BATTERY ISOLATORS

Well-nigh everybody has one. Most people never pay attention to them. I do. And I've got mine remoted to a switch on the dash to avert the [many] problems they tin cause. Well-nigh isolators send a charge to the batteries automatically. I don't want to practice that. Usually, my solar organisation keeps the "firm" batteries charged just fine. At that place are times, in bad weather, when I need to boost the batteries, so when on the route I hit the switch that goes to the charge line to business firm batteries and the engine alternator charges them in the normal way. A cheap, voltmeter on the dash keeps me informed when to shut charging off.